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| Look at an
old stucco house. It's usually in
good shape except the chimney. The cap,
which is mortar spread on the top of the
chimney, cracks, spalls and deteriorates.
The water damages the stucco, which should last forever, provided a lot of water doesn't get behind it. Solution- check your cap every 5 years and coat over if needed. |
Here
an old brick chimney was stuccoed.
The bands at the top were added. These not only add a decorative effect, but prevent water from running down the face of the stucco. |
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| EIFS
chimney before we tore off the EIFS and put on new
OSB. The same details will be duplicated with stucco (cement mortar).
The sheathing
was badly rotted but the
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Metal cap on
new house leaks bad. The metal is secured with nails
covered with globs of caulking. The caulking has cracked up and shrunk
allowing water to enter 6 year
old chimney. Where my fingers are is another caulk joint which
has
shrunk and
cracked allowing water to enter between
the EIFS and the metal cap. We covered the cap with lath and mortar. These metal caps are a joke. They leak and allow rust stains to run down the chimney. |
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| View of side
of chimney showing the original
step flashing and a kick-out flashing we made. The kick-out
diverts
water from the
flashing into the gutter. These are critical in
preventing water from running behind the stucco.
The step flashing was in good shape so we re-used it. Most of the sheathing was rotted and had to be replaced. |
Step
flashing is sealed with black stuff
from Home Cheap-o. This is the same black stuff that comes in a can and gets all over the place. I felt that in a tube, it wouldn't get all over the place. |
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| Counter flashing is bent with a metal brake to cover the step flashing. The counter flashing prevents water from getting behind the step flashing. | 3/4" plaster
stop (casing bead) is butted to
counter flashing. This defines an edge for
the bottom of the stucco and defines the
thickness. The flashing is covered with red tape and plastic before stucco mortar is applied. Tar paper and self-furring lath are applied to the chimney. |
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| Juan
C. rods off the brown coat while
Edgar rubs the mortar with a float after it sets. |
Scaffold-cam
shows 2x4 forms nailed to
the chimney to define the first step. The
band has an additional layer of metal lath and a scratch coat
applied.
The metal cap at the top is covered with
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| After
the first layer sets, the next step is
formed and filled, then the last step is formed and filled. I had
pictures of each step, but they got
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Finished
chimney with white portland and
white sand. The top is slightly rounded to
allow water to run off.
The three steps at the top add a nice decorative as well as functional effect. Note the decorative band 2 feet below the steps. This was formed with 1x4 s and filled with lath and mortar. The cap (the very top) will need to be checked every 5 years for spalling or deterioration and recoated as needed. It sure beats that metal that was there. |