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Stucco over painted
block, brick or stucco by chipping the block
Chipping up the wall is a variation of an old method that seems to work
the best for us. Sand blasting is a real chore and not cheap. Usually,
sandblasting leaves a dust cloud that looks like a fire in the distance.
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| Here paint is chipped off using a chipping hammer. A good place to
buy these is from Harbor Freight. Deep holes don't matter. They have a
better key for the mortar. |
A race between a hatchet and an electric chipping hammer shows the
hatchet is almost as fast. It is good to have a grinder on the job to sharpen
the hatchet or bits once in a while. |
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Ready for mortar. Chips leave areas both rough and porous
for a permanent
bond. |
Flex con is
used for additional adhesion.
We mixed flex con half and half with water and mixed it into the dry
mixed mortar.
I have to advertise also for Milestone.
Milestone "E" chemical is concentrated
and will make the equivalent of 3 buckets of flex con, diluted with
water.
The acrylic not only is adhesive for a good bond, but is resistant
to cracks and
adds strength. |
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| Here the dry mix is mixed with the wet mix with a drill, but a hoe
works, too. |
Scratch coat is applied with a lot of pressure to give a good squish
into the holes. Scratch coat is scored and allowed to set 2 days before
the brown coat. How long will this last? I think about
4,000 years. |
Paint on bonding agents seem to fail over time, At least all the work we
have done with them on the outside eventually popped off the wall. The
reason paint on agents fail on the outside of a building is because they
dissolve in water. The reason they work to begin with is that the surface
dissolves when wet plaster or cement mortar is applied. The mortar then
mixes with the bonder and dries together, forming a chemical bond.
We have had a lot
of cracks nailing metal lath over the painted block. I think the reason
we have excessive cracking with lath is the paint forms a “slip joint”.
The stucco expands and contracts one way and the block or brick another
way, causing a lot of cracks. Nailing lath on block is also a slow and
expensive process. Even with stub nails or pin set pins the lath doesn't
seem to be attached as well as putting the mortar right on the block. Nailing
brick is unreliable. The nails break
up the brick, leaving the only resort of driving nails into the
mortar joints.
Most of the
area of the block is chipped up, leaving the pores open on the blocks for
a good bond. A few holes don't hurt, mortar squished into these
holes form a good key for the slab. We have had very few or no cracks at
all using this method. |